dilluns, 21 de febrer del 2011
Ciutat Vella compared to Berlin's Nikolaiviertel
One of the first things I was told when I arrived in Barcelona was: Be careful in El Raval and the Barri Gòtic, take the main streets and don't walk the tiny, winding alleys! Fortunately that made me only more curious because as nice as the Cathedral might be, these labyrinthine streets are the true attraction of the Ciutat Vella.
The narrow streets and the high buildings result in a lack of daylight as well as in a dangerous neighboorhood making the living conditions far from perfect. Nevertheless I can't think of a more charming and atmospheric place. History is almost tangible here, sometimes seemingly untouched and a witness of a certain era and sometimes historicall layered: annexes, conversions and remodellings left their mark over the centuries. Different times had different needs and the buildings complied, turning the whole quarter into this very interesting palimpsest.
Comparing one of Berlin's quarters with the Ciutat Vella is quite difficult as Berlin is not as old as Barcelona: By the time Barcelona was important enough to build it's own cathedral, Berlin was nothing more than a small town with one church: the Nikolaikirche (church of Nikolai). Around this church there were a few dwelling houses, forming the Nikolaiviertel (quarter of Nikolai). The Thirty Year's War, World Wars I and II did not leave much of it and the lack of appreciation by the population took care of the rest: In a rush to rebuild the bombed Berlin even the less destroyed buildings of the quarter were demolished. This was very much regretted in the 80's and in 1987 the quarter was reconstructed.
Nowadays it's a very popular tourist area and,
blinded by the flawlessness, few of them realize that except for the church it's just a copy of the historic quarter. The dwellings are comfortable with well-working heating systems, insulated windows and modern bathrooms. Everything looks pretty, there are no imperfections and one could say that living conditions are ideal. Or one could say that it is plain boring.